GENERAL INFORMATION

EXTERIOR

Contact between the exterior wall surface and grade was noted at some points along the perimeter of the residence. This state promotes a condition that is conducive to infestation by wood deteriorating organisms or wood rot. It is important that materials such as leaves, vegetation, soil, silt or other debris are not permitted to accumulate at any part of the lower exterior wall. Recommendation: Adjust grade to provide for a 4-inch separation between the bottom of the wall and grade.

The stucco cladding is stained. I don't know what caused the staining and recommend cleaning the stucco. If cleaning doesn't remove the stains, it may be necessary to paint the affected area. I don't recommend that the client attempt to do this as a do-it-yourselfer project, since only paint specifically formulated for stucco should be used for this purpose. Consult a reputable stucco contractor to discuss options and cost.

There is contact between the exterior cladding and grade. This kind of contact can cause moisture damage to cladding, underlying sheathing and framing, or result in insect infestation. There needs to be at least six inches of clearance between siding components and grade, and leaves, vegetation or other debris should not accumulate against any part of the exterior. I recommend correcting this right away.

There is loose, damaged or missing trim. Besides being unsightly, loose/missing trim can result in water penetration that leads to rot and insect infestation. A competent carpenter needs to make repairs.

A weather-exposed entry door is leaking around the threshold into the interior and will need to be repaired. Besides damage to finished flooring or floor coverings, water infiltration into the sub-floor and framing beneath an entrance can eventually lead to rot or insect infestation. When an exterior door is exposed to the weather as this one is, the area beneath the threshold needs to be thoroughly and carefully flashed. Many builders install custom drain pans that the door and casing rest in and which drain to the exterior. Since I am seeing leakage into the interior, it is obvious that no such flashing or pan has been installed. I recommend immediate correction by a competent carpenter or door/window professional.

Inspectors are NOT required to inspect or report on the presence or condition of recreational facilities, outbuildings, seawalls, break-walls and docks, window and door screening, shutters, awnings or similar seasonal accessories.

ROOF SYSTEM

There is either no or incomplete/incorrect drip edging installed around the perimeter of this roof. Both the National Roofing Contractors Association (NRCA) and the Asphalt Roofing Manufacturers Association (ARMA) recommend drip edging are installed at the rakes and eaves of all roofs. This is to limit exposure of the edges of the roof decking to wind-driven rain, capillary action or splash back from gutters that could eventually lead to failure of the roof decking. These instructions are clearly spelled out in the installation manuals of both of these organizations. While it might be the case that few roofers in this particular region customarily install drip edging, I feel that, if NRCA and ARMA see it as a necessary component of the roof system, it should not be omitted and correction by a reputable roofer is recommended.

Some damaged or missing roof shingles were noted. Immediate repair by a reputable roofing contractor is recommended.

The flashings are rusting and will need to be serviced by cleaning, priming and painting with a rust-inhibitive finish. Any experienced handyperson should be able to accomplish this without any difficulty.

Inspectors are NOT required to inspect antennae, interiors of chimneys or flues that are not readily accessible or other installed accessory items.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

The service drop is poorly anchored to the house and in danger of being pulled loose. If it pulls loose the strain on the drop could loosen or detach the neutral cable, causing the household voltage to be unstable. Essentially all circuits in the home could become 240volt circuits, burning out some appliances or convenience items and posing a substantial hazard. I recommend having the drop attachment immediately repaired by the utility provider.

I found what appeared to be illegal taps or splices installed on the electrical system that bypass the meter. I recommend this be investigated and corrected as necessary by a reputable electrician or the utility provider.

There is no circuit identifying legend on the interior panel cover in the electrical service box as required. Recommendation: Identify circuits and create a proper legend on the interior panel as required.

Because of the way it wobbles, I believe that the driven grounding electrode is too short and may have been cut short. Grounding electrodes are typically 8ft. long and must be driven their full length into the ground. Sometimes, when this is difficult, an electrician will cut a rod short, in which case there may be too little rod surface in contact with earth to provide an adequate ground. I recommend that a licensed electrician investigate this further and make corrections as needed.

Inspectors are NOT required to inspect any remote control devices (unless such device is the only means of control), alarm systems and associated components and controls, low-voltage wiring systems or components or any ancillary wiring, systems or components that are not part of the primary power distribution system. We are also NOT required to measure amperage draw, line voltage or ground impedance.

HEATING SYSTEM

The furnace/boiler housing is badly rusted. This usually indicates exhaust condensate leakage, a backdrafting flue or, in the case of a hot water/steam system, may indicate a boiler leak. I recommend having this unit immediately inspected and repaired as necessary by a reputable/professional HVAC firm.

The flexible connector used between the rigid gas line and the furnace/boiler control valve is the wrong type or is not approved for this region. I recommend immediate replacement by a licensed pipe fitter.

I noted obvious acidic deterioration of furnace/boiler components. This is typically caused by severe backdrafting, a blocked flue or a condensate leak. Further investigation and repair by a reputable/professional HVAC firm is recommended.

Oil stains were noted on the floor at the oil furnace/boiler. Indicating a possible leak. As this is a potential fire hazard, it should be immediately referred to a reputable/professional HVAC firm for correction as appropriate.

Based on the age of the system and the appearance of the material, I believe the material used to wrap/seal the heating ducts has a high probability of containing asbestos fiber, a health hazard. The material doesn't appear to have been damaged and I don't recommend tampering with it, unless it is tested and found to not contain asbestos. Unless it is damaged to the point where fibers are friable (breaking off into the air and can be breathed), there is little risk of harm from this material. However, it can be made safer by having it encapsulated in latex heating duct mastic. If remediation is desired, I recommend using only a properly trained and EPA licensed asbestos abatement contractor.

Inspectors are NOT required to inspect the interiors of flues or chimneys when not readily accessible, the heat exchanger(s) of boilers or furnaces, humidifiers or dehumidifiers, electronic air cleaners or any solar space heating system(s). We are also NOT required to determine the adequacy of the heating system or distribution/balance of heat throughout the home.

PLUMBING SYSTEM

I noted mineral deposits/rust staining at pipe elbows that indicate possible leakage or weak pipe walls that will need further investigation and correction as necessary.

I noted signs of previous plumbing leaks (water-damaged floors, cabinet bottoms, stains at walls, etc.) that may be indicative of recent repairs to the system. If this hadn't been previously disclosed, I recommend the client determine from the homeowner exactly what those repairs had been.

The toilet in the @@@ bath has a very weak flush and may be prone to clogging. This could simply be a design flaw with this particular toilet or the holes at the bowl rim may be occluded with lime and need to be cleaned out. This will require further investigation and correction as appropriate.

I tested the water pressure using a gauge and found it to be less than 15 lbs. static pressure. This is below minimum standards for everyday usage and should be corrected. This may require the addition of an auxiliary booster pump or pressure tank in order to achieve acceptable levels.

All of the supply water, whether hot or cold, is brown with rust when drawn. This normally indicates the minor rusting that takes place inside galvanized pipe when the water hasn't been run for several days. Such minor rust will normally flush out of the system within 20 - 40 seconds of the tap being opened. However, I ran the water for some minutes, in order to flush the residue out of the plumbing, and was unsuccessful in eliminating the color. I suspect this has been caused by badly rusted pipes or is entering the supply plumbing from the water supply. If it originates in the pipes of this house, deterioration that is this bad could necessitate near-term, if not immediate, replacement of the affected plumbing. This will require further assessment to determine the exact cause of the rust and to correct it.

Inspectors are NOT required to inspect the connections for clothes washing machines, interiors of flues or chimneys when not readily accessible, wells or well pumps, equipment associated with water storage, water conditioning equipment, solar water heating components or systems, fire sprinkler or irrigation systems or private waste disposal (septic) systems. Additionally, inspectors are not required to operate safety valves or shut-off valves of any kind. We DO NOT determine the quantity or quality of water supplies or whether water supply and waste disposal systems are public or private.

INTERIOR

Small carpet stains are visible at random areas of the home.

There are minor wall blemishes throughout the home that are of no real significance to this inspection. I only report on individual conditions that are significant and that indicate underlying defects of a more serious nature, such as settling, structural inadequacies, water intrusion, rot or insect damage.

There is damaged/missing door trim around one or more doors in the home that needs to be repaired by a competent trim carpenter.

The resilient floor tiles are heavily worn and long overdue for replacement. Consult a reputable floor-covering firm to discuss replacement options and cost.

There are one or more cabinets in the @@@ with loose/broken hinges.

The edges of the resilient surfaces at the kitchen counters are lifting. The material will need to be re-adhered by a professional cabinetmaker.

Inspectors are NOT required to inspect paint, wallpaper or other finish treatments, carpeting, window treatments, central vacuum systems, household appliances and recreational facilities or gymnastic equipment.

INSULATION AND VENTILATION

There is no seal at the attic access hatch. This will result in some loss of energy as heated air from the home leaks into the attic space(s). It is recommended that the hatch be fitted with a tight-fitting seal.

Signs of vermin-trails through/over the insulation, droppings, urine spots and nesting materials - were found in this attic. This may or may not be a condition that has already been resolved. It is recommended that further inspection be done by a licensed pest control operator/exterminator and remediation as necessary.

One or more exhaust vents in the attic have been fully utilized or partially blocked by ducting for source specific exhaust fans. This is an incorrect installation that compromises the ventilation of the attic space. All exhaust device manufacturers specify that their product be connected to dedicated through-the-roof rain caps that ensure that 100% of all moisture-laden air is exhausted to the outside. Simply stuffing a duct up into the bonnet of a roof vent doesn't meet this requirement. In fact, by cutting down on the available draft at one or more exhaust vents, this compromises attic ventilation. It is recommended that separate, dedicated through-the-roof rain caps be installed for as close to the fan source as possible using insulated ducting. This will minimize the possibility of condensation taking place inside the ducts and eventually leaking to the home below. Any competent carpenter or experienced handyperson can install a dedicated rain cap in about an hour.

The walls of the home have been filled with vermiculite mineral insulation. This product has been used in hundreds of thousands of homes throughout the US and Canada, with the most popular brand being a W.R. Grace product known as Zonolite. While vermiculite has been shown to be a very good insulator, research has shown that it often contains harmful asbestos fibers, and lawsuits are pending wherein workers exposed to it on a regular basis have developed respiratory illnesses and cancer. At present, there are a number of class-action lawsuits pending involving the product. Although environmental testing is outside the scope of this inspection, it is important for client(s) to understand that the presence of this product in a home may pose some degree of risk that asbestos fibers could be released into the air if the product is disturbed during repairs, remodeling or renovations. There are environmental testing firms that can sample the material to determine if it does in fact contain asbestos. Similarly, licensed asbestos remediation firms may be able to remove or encapsulate the product. It is recommended as additional due diligence that the client(s) consult such firms in order to gauge their level of risk.

Heating ducts and water piping routed through the unheated crawlspace will undoubtedly result in energy lost as the hot air in the ducts and hot water in the pipes has its temperature lowered. Under such conditions it is recommended that the ductwork and piping be insulated. Any reputable heating contractor, or even an experienced handyperson, can insulate these components in about a day.

The master bath exhaust fan is inoperative. Repair or replacement is recommended.

Inspectors are NOT required to determine indoor air quality or disturb insulation or vapor retarders, unless required by law.

STRUCTURAL SYSTEM

The exterior of the foundation footing is exposed. This leaves the foundation vulnerable to frost heave as well as to rain or surface drainage that can undermine the footings. Footers should not be exposed and should go at least to below frost depth, unless specifically designed as part of a frost-protected type of foundation. The foundation needs to be buried to an appropriate depth to properly protect these footings. Recommendation: Evaluation by a structural engineer and repair as appropriate.

One or more posts that support the main structure, additions, exterior decks and/or stairs is buried in soil and is rotting. If not corrected, this could eventually lead to pest infestation and even structural damage to the home. Even pressure-treated posts and those encased in concrete footings need to be kept free of soil to limit saturation and exposure to rot and insects. Recommendation: Adjust the height of grading around all of the support posts to ensure at least four inches of clearance from the soil. All rot or insect-damaged posts should be repaired or replaced.

No foundation anchors were observed in any crawlspace or basement. They may have been accidentally omitted or are concealed inside walls. It's also possible that the home was never intended to have them, since the use of sill-to-foundation anchors is a relatively recent phenomenon and many homes built prior to the 1940's didn't have them. Determining this for certain will probably require invasive inspection and is outside the scope of this inspection. Recommendation: Further evaluation and retrofit of anchors, if necessary, by a licensed contractor.

Some of the heating ductwork in the crawlspace is loose, leaking, improperly suspended or has been disconnected. Recommendation: Repair as appropriate by a licensed HVAC contractor.

There appeared to be mold or mildew coating the surface of some of the under floor components in the crawlspace. Mold needs moisture to thrive, however, no evidence of a plumbing or infiltration leak was observed. Some types of mold organisms are supposed to be toxic to humans. Determining whether the material observed poses a health risk is outside the scope of this inspection. If desired, an indoor air quality (IAQ) firm specializing in mold identification and abatement can examine the substance, to determine exactly what it is and whether any of the substance has spread to the living spaces above.

The vapor barrier in the crawlspace is inadequate, as it doesn't cover 100% of the soil under the home or has been rendered ineffective by damage. This is important because the barrier limits the amount of moisture that can evaporate out of the soil into the crawlspace. High humidity can result in mold and rot that lead to infestation by wood-destroying insects and eventually structural damage. Recommendation: Evaluation and repair by a licensed insulation contractor.

I found indications of wood-destroying insect infestation in the home. Infestation by wood-destroying insects is normally a symptom of high moisture levels in wood that have caused the wood to rot or soften enough to make tunneling by insects possible. If I saw a water intrusion issue that contributed to this, it has been documented elsewhere in this report. Otherwise, I don't know what led to this infestation. Regardless, I recommend a follow-up inspection by a licensed pest control operator (PCO) to identify the insects involved, determine the exact cause of infestation and the extent of damage to the home, prescribe repairs and treat the home as necessary to eliminate the infestation and provide residual protection. Thereafter, I recommend follow-up inspections and treatments a necessary at two to three year intervals.

Probing is not done when doing so will damage finished surfaces, when no visible deterioration exists and if doing so requires inspectors to be licensed pest control operators (PCO), unless the inspector involved is so licensed. Inspectors are NOT required to offer an opinion as to the structural adequacy of any structural systems or components or provide architectural services or an engineering or structural analysis of any kind.